GL1100 Engine2 1975_gl1000 GL1100 Engine2

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GL1100 Engine2 GL1100 Engine2

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1.Remove rear wheel and undo right shock bolt.


2. Free the rear brake line from the clip on the swing arm and tie the caliper up out of the way.


3.Remove final drive unit.


4.Remove circlip from inside splined joint on the drive shaft and remove the splined joint.


5.Peel back the rubber boot from the arm at the universal joint.


6.Undo left shock absorber bolt but leave bolt in place to support the weight of swing arm for the moment.


7.Remove the rubber covers from each side swing arm pivot nut.


8.Undo the two large locknuts. They are only locknuts so they don't need to be removed.


9.Put an axle stand or something similar central underneath the swing arm at each pivot end to catch the weight of it.


10.With a large Allen key unscrew the pivot bolt from each side. Again, they don't need to be unscrewed right out, you will feel the arm drop when each one is out far enough.


11.Remove the left shock absorber bolt, then pull the arm to the rear remembering that the prop shaft is still there.


12.Catch the propshaft and tie it up out of the way.


13.Put your new bearings in the freezer while you do the next lot.


14.Check out the bearing layout in the above diagram.


15.Pull off the rubber bearing dust seals 52145-371-000.


16.Slide out the pivot collars 52141-371-000 along with the thrust bushes 52109-371-000 which may be stuck solid.


17.Warm the bearing housing area of the swinging arm with a propane torch or similar (it only needs to be warm) and

knock the right hand bearing into the swing arm. Retrieve the bearing from the shaft tunnel. Use a long round bar to knock out the left hand bearing thrust together with the thrust bush. The r/h thrust bush can now be knocked out from the inside - these bushes are brittle and will probably break but are discarded anyway.


18. Finally, give everything a good clean before installing new bearings.























There are two different pivot collars, although it seems that the part number was not changed. The critical dimension here is the overall length.

Collar A: fitted to the early GL1000 is 25.50mm:  Collar B; fitted to the later KZ models is 22.90mm


19. Fetch new bearings from the freezer, heat up the swing arm again, put the bearing onto the pivot pin and use a soft-       faced mallet or hammer to tap the bearing into the swing arm.


    If you have Collar A, the bearing needs to be inserted to 3mm below the outer edge of the swing arm.

     If you have Collar B, the bearing lies flush with the outer edge of the swing arm.


20. Repeat for the other side.


21. Lubricate the bearings with a lithium-based grease with molybdenum disulphide (MoS2) as used in automotive front C.V. joints      


22. Check the condition of the pivot bolt 90121-371-000. These are sometimes still available new.


23. Unless they are damaged, do not attempt to remove the pivot nuts in the frame that the pivot bolt screws through.

They are fitted extremely tightly into the frame housing.


24. Lubricate and insert the pivot collars into the needle roller thrust bearing followed by the thrust washer and replace

the rubber dust seals*.


25. Re-assemble swing arm by reversing above procedure.


26. IMPORTANT! The adjustment of the pivot bolts is critical. The roller thrust bearing must have a preload in order to that  the thrust rollers roll and not slide.


27. First screw the pivot bolts into the frame with the locknuts on them such that there is about two threads of the pivot

bolt showing to the outside of the nuts.


28. Screw the right hand bolt in and tighten the nut so that there is only about one thread showing.


29. Screw the left pivot bolt in and tighten to 7ft/lbs. Then tighten the locknut.


30. Check that the arm moves up and down freely. If not, slacken the left pivot bolt off a fraction until it does.


31. When re-mounting the final drive unit, first put the wheel spindle in to line every thing up and tighten, it before you tighten the three final drive housing nuts. This ensures that everything is properly aligned.




Our new dust seals are an accurate reproduction replacement, sized for this conversion, of

OEM 52145-371-000. Made in collaboration with Randakk’s Cycle Shakk              


KZ SWING ARM BEARINGS  seal size change Randakk on white

WinGovations KZ Style Swing Arm Bearings

if ordering the WinGovations kits, it would be prudent to do the dismantling first since you need to check that the pivot collars are ok.

Not too likely, but just maybe! If you are in any doubt at all, you will need to find good collars, or risk wrecking your new bearings.  This is a big job and you don't want to do it again, not to mention doubling the costs.

If necessary, we can do a next-day service to get the new parts to you. Normally we would use a two day service to keep your costs down.

The last of the GL1000, called the KZ here in the UK, had a much superior bearing arrangement for the swinging arm. Instead of the easily damaged (and now unobtainable) thrust bush, a pair of needle roller bearings and thrust washers were employed to take the side thrust along with a slightly longer main needle roller pivot bearing. This is a better arrangement all round.

1975 1976 1977 1978 1979 1980  GoldWing 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987

WinGovations Copyright 2010-2015

J G Evans

An essential upgrade for all GL1000 models