PARTS AND ADVICE FOR YOUR 'OLDEN GOLDIE'
An online source dedicated to Honda's amazing four cylinder Goldwings!
BRAKES: One simple word to cover a multitude of parts, configurations and problems.
OK, let's start with the discs;
Solid discs: the solid discs front and rear of the GL1000, the rear discs of the 1100 and 1200 and the front discs of the Aspencade models are composite. In other words, they have a stainless steel friction surface rivited to an alloy centre section.
Later GL1000, GL1100 and GL1200 Interstate are one piece stamped steel discs.
If the friction surface becomes badly grooved, it can be reclaimed by grinding the surface, provided that does not bring the thickness down under the specified minimum thickness.
We can help with most of our models by supplying new discs in the case of the stamped ones, or supplying and fitting new friction surfaces to the composite ones
See the new parts pages for more information.
Discs without grooves or holes are notorious for poor braking in wet weather. Modern pads help but the best answer to this is to have them drilled. This helps to break the surface tension of the water and to disperse the gases generated under braking.
See this page for more information.
The GL1200 Interstate models have solid discs with radial grooves cut into both sides to remove water and out gassing from the pads.
The GL1200 Aspencade, LTD and SEi models all have vented discs (a sort of double disc with vanes between them to promote air cooling) and also have the radial grooves. The GL1100 uniquely has a vented rear disc.
Again, if the friction surface becomes badly grooved, it can be reclaimed by grinding the surface, provided that does not bring the thickness down under the specified minimum thickness.
We can help with most of these models too, by supplying and fitting new friction surfaces.
At the moment we have no fitment for the rear disc of the GL1100 Aspencade. The disc on this bke is a one model, one year only component
Modern pads contain no asbestos and therefore are nothing like the health hazard of the old style. Non the less, when changing pads, take care not to breathe in the dust. The use of proper brake cleaning fluid is very much recommended, both for ease of cleaning and to keep the dust hazard down.
Pads are designated by two letters. The standard pads, suitable for almost every occasion, are labelled GG. These are usually an organic compound which provides adequate braking without wearing the discs too much.
For heavier bikes or more aggresive riding, there is the FF grade. These are generally a sintered pad with metallic parts embeddded. They do not tend to fade under heavy braking but the pay-off is increased disc wear.
We can supply the correct pads for your application. Click for direct link.
The original factory hoses are reinforced rubber with zinc or cadmium plated mild steel fittings. These hoses over time become cracked externally and deteriorate internally. Hoses that look fine on the outside can often be the cause of poor braking with the the inside bore closing up due to degradation of the interior. Anyone still running original 30 odd year old hoses is asking for trouble. The rubber can expand with the hydraulic pressure from the lever, meaning reduced pressure at the caliper. There is always the chance of an old hose bursting under braking too!
The mild steel fittings lose their plating over time, resulting in poor appearance or rust. This is a generally a cosmetic problem, rather than a safely issue, but can spoil the look of an otherwise nice bike.
If you wish to keep the OEM look for cosmetic reasons, new rubber hoses are available from a number of sources such as Sirius Consolidated.
We would always recommend the fitting of braided stainless steel braided hoses with stainless fitting as the best replacements. The braiding prevents the hoses expanding and so loosing pressure when braking. They can be had with clear or coloured coverings to simulate the OEM look or to match your custom colour scheme. Here are just two recommended sources:
Hydraulics to come soon.
BEWARE! There are braided stainless hoses out there with alloy fittings.
DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT BUYING THESE!
Stainless steel and aluminium do not like each other. When they get damp, an electrolytic corrosion occurs between them and the alloy simply disintegrates, just like this example!
For that same reason, if you use stainless banjo bolts in the end fittings, use copper crush washers to keep the hose union away from the caliper, and coat the threads with a COPPER based anti-seize compound.
Callipers, brake pistons, seal kits, master cylinder problems