WINGOVATIONS

 PARTS AND ADVICE FOR YOUR 'OLDEN GOLDIE'

GL1100 Engine2 1975_gl1000 GL1100 Engine2

An online source dedicated to Honda's amazing four cylinder Goldwings!

GL1100 Engine2 GL1100 Engine2

Welcome to my blog!

By John Evans, Sep 8 2016 02:43PM

I am reliably informed that miracles happen; frequently . True or not, I am finding that I am being asked to perform them, more and more frequently.


Well, it may be because people believe that I am too wonderful for words and that my skills are almost alien in nature. These observations, while undoubtedly true, are becoming a source of difficulty as my stock of miracles is getting severely depleted.


So please, next time you want your carburettors rebuilding, please take a few moments to clean them off and really look at what you expecting me to be able to accomplish wth this block of rapidly disintegrating alloy..

Be honest with yourself. Take the float bowls off at least and see what's inside. if they look like the carbs in the bottom picture on my carb rebuild page, you are probably expecting me to use up some more miracle stock. But sometimes no amount of miracles, magic wands, oofle dust (older UK readers may know that one!) etc. can bring carbs in that condition back.


But I will always try for you.


You have to understand though, a load of extra work is going to cost you. The prices on the page are for a straightforward cleanng and rebuilding. The odd problem during that process can be coped with, but I have just spent 18 hours trying to get a set of GL1100 carbs sorted out. And these are relatively smple to rebuild, averaging about 8 hours including some polishing.



By John Evans, May 23 2016 05:56PM

A number of you have asked about contributing to the helicopter fund, without buying the T shirt.


Very altruistic of you, although why you wouldn't want on of those shirts is beyond me!


So here is a direct link to the fund organisers.

http://www.manxgrandprix.org/MGP/Supporters-Club


Many thanks to all who have seen this as a worthwhile thing to do.


By the way, if you don't know what thwe Manx Grand Prix is all about, may I suggest that you do some research. Vintage and historic racing machinery of all makes and classes. Bike you have never even heard of, as well as the ones you know but have never seen in action.


AND ACTION THERE IS!


These rare and valuable bikes are used as they were intended to be used, HARD!

This will give some idea of how hard!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n215cNg3GWE



By John Evans, May 20 2016 06:25PM

We can all use a nice new T-shirt for the summer. Here's your chance to have a great looking vintage style T and do your bit to help a very good cause in saving lives on the Isle of Man.


http://www.wemoto.com/components/clothinghelmetsandgoggles/tshirts


At only £10 / $15 plus shipping it's a real steal. Why not get two?


Buy a Wemoto Festival of Jurby T Shirt and help John McGuinness, Conor Cummins, Michael Rutter and Wemoto support the Manx Grand Prix helicopter. Rescue helicopter ambulances are used during the Isle of Man TT and the Manx Grand Prix practice weeks and race days.


In the event of an incident on the course, one of the helicopters will be despatched, complete with medical staff and equipment to get to the scene as soon as possible.


The helicopters, which have a top speed of 150mph, take an average time of five to six minutes from the first radio alert to arrive at the scene of an incident. Some parts of the TT course are quite inaccessible and speed is of the essence if there has been a crash, so the rescue helicopters are an essential life-saving service which racers rely on.


One of the helicopters at the Manx Grand Prix is funded entirely by charitable donations and all profits raised from the sale of these great Festival of Jurby Helicopter Fund T shirts, endorsed and signed by three TT racing legends, will go towards keeping this essential service in the air.


In case you are wondering what the Festival of Jurby is, Jurby on the I.O.M has the Island's biggest motoring museum and hosts this festival each year. Check this out:

http://darvillracing.co.uk/vmcc-festival-of-jurby/





By John Evans, May 9 2016 02:19AM

I did this page as a joke for someone on one of the forums, but as it's the time of year to be getting out there and resurrecting that dying mechanical pony, it might just galvanise someone into action! :-)


http://www.wingovations.com/arse-kicking/4590846275

By John Evans, Apr 24 2016 06:08PM

Tidied up some of the website, plus a couple of new parts added.

On the home page, you will now find a page marked Parts under the Index button. I've done this to help you all find what you are looking for, as previously the system was a bit messy.

You may note that there is a couple of new parts added.

A stainless steel screw kit for the front transmission cover from my frind Robin in the States. This is a boon to anyone who has the misfortune to have to rplace a water pump, for reasons well documented on this page.

Also the excellent 7 volt regulators from Scott, also in the States. Notoriously unreliable as they get older, and damded expensive to replace with Honda parts, this is again something that you might not need right now but eventually, yes, you will!

By John Evans, Apr 21 2016 12:01PM

......of head gasket failure.


I am rebuilding a GL1000 engine for a customer. This is, I believe, a fairly high mileage engine and one that has seen some abuse by previous owners.

As I always do, I run a tap down all the bolt holes in the block to make sure that the threads are ok and clean out years of accumulated muck from the bottom of the holes which may stop the bolts going right in.

What I found this time is enough to warrant a new Tech Tip.

Check it out in the Engine section or use the link:


http://www.wingovations.com/possible-cause-of-head-gasket/4592242130

By John Evans, Apr 18 2016 01:39AM

I've been meaning to do an article on this, but this will do until I can get pictures taken.

The screws on this cover are JIS cross heads, made from cream cheese I think!

Invariably, they are corroded into the cover and the cross wil rip out, even if you use the correct JIS screwdriver on them. Using an impact driver will guarantee this happenting, or the heads breaking off.

The heads with the ripped out cross can be drilled off, release oil put on the remains and usually the cover will lift off, leaving the stubs of the screws to be removed with a stud tool if they are really tight.

But sometime you can hit a problem.

On the left side of the transmission cover ( the right side as looking at the cover from the front of the engine) the outer screw goes into an 'ear' cast into the crankcase. This ear can relatively easily be broken off the cases if you get heavy handed with the screw removal.

That's not good!


I am in the process of rebuilding an engine for a customer and hit this problem, hence this post.

I tried everything I know, to release that screw!

It was so corroded into the cover that eventually, after spending 3 hours at it, I had to use the Dremel with a cutting disc and cut through the cover on both sides of the screw.

Brutal solution! But I had no choice. The cover had to come off to split the cases. You would not believe the corrosion between that screw and the cover.

Fortunately I have a spare cover and once the old one was off all the stubs came out fairly easily.


The problem with that particular screw is that the threaded hole in the crankcase ear is open to the elements from the rear. The solution, once you have replaced the screw with a new one, is to back-fill the hole with some epoxy sealer to keep any moisture out.

Before replacing the screws, make sure to run a tap down the threads to clear out any corrosion. You might be surprised how much rubbish you rmove out of each hole!

Make sure that you use a copper anti-seize on ALL the screws when replacing them. THIS IS ESPECIALLY IMPORTANT IF REPLACING THEM WITH STAINLESS STEEL ITEMS.


By John Evans, Mar 29 2016 07:22PM

This may be of interest to any one in the States importing high dollar parts, or for anyone wanting to export high dollar parts to the States.


Increased 'De Minimis' to $800 for US tax & duty free imports


A year ago the Low Value Shipment Regulatory Modernization Act of 2015 bill was put before the US congress. The aim was to amend the Tariff Act of 1930 to increase from the value of goods an individual could import by mail (effectively ecommerce) from $200 to $800.

Importantly as well as no duties or taxes to be collected, no formal customs procedures are required which means less paperwork for ecommerce merchants.

The rise to $800 has been approved and comes into force with immediate from the 10th March 2016. The bill’s intention is for that figure to be adjusted annually for inflation after 2016.

The duty-free exemption of $200 had not been updated since 1993. In 2012 exemption for travelers returning to the United States from abroad was raised from from $400 to $800, so the new allowance for items shipped to the US will now match the travel allowance.


By John Evans, Mar 14 2016 02:32PM

I recently had a run-in with someone on one of the Goldwing forums over incorrect information.


Now, as stated before I am not infallible, but I do know that I am a very good engineer and mechanic.

I say this not to boast, but to emphasise that any info I give out is what I and other engineers consider best practise. I will also spend many hours researching something if I have not got the knowledge to be certain of being correct in an answer.


When a thread gets like that one, I have a very hard job to remain civil. But when someone is disseminating incorrect information I can't just let it go. These forums and my website should be to give guys with less knowledge the means to do a job the correct way.

If someone, like myself and other experienced mechanics, knows there may be a way to short-cut a procedure that is fine. But for inexperienced owners still finding their way, the information HAS to be correct and complete.

My pages have been accused of being too long, but to the best of my ability all the info there will help a new owner to get a job done the right way.

In fact I review them regularly and, in the light of new knowledge perhaps, sometimes they get even longer.

By John Evans, Mar 5 2016 11:09PM

All the above four cylinder models had the same shock absorber on the alternator rotor shaft ( the GL1200 has springs instead of rubber blocks).

The problem is these rubbers convert to something akin to rock, due to the heat and oil.

See here: http://www.wingovations.com/alternator-shock-absorber/4579471110


I am convinced that sometimes the rattle normally attributed to a worn primary chain could well be because these rubbers are disintegrating and not able to control the to-&-fro motion of the heavy alternator rotor. So there could be a rattle from the vanes of the shock absorber, the alternator drive gear teeth and / or the primary chain as the motion is transferred to it.


It has taken me over a year to locat just 4 of these. Each damper takes 12. I recently went through 80, yes eight zero, dealers in a quest to find more.

They don't exist.


So what to do? I stripped some units over at Dougs last year, including the one that is in my engine, and some units that I have here. Every one was the same; I'm willing to bet that almost every one of the above bikes still out there has the same problem.


So, after wasting countless hours contacting commercial rubber moulders, and tired of being asked how many thousand I want in each order (1000 would be enough for 83 bikes!), I am going to experiment with moulding some myself.

The rubber and release agent is on it's way. Next I have to make the mould.

Fun times ahead!


Update 14th Mar:

Well, I have had a couple of goes at this now and the results are encouraging to say the least.

Not too sure that I have the Shore Hardness number right. I've used Shore 90 which is a very hard rubber, but the original OEM ones are also very hard and that is before they are compressed during assembly.

There is a problem of course in testing. Due to where this damper is located, each time it means an engine out and back-end strip to change anything. Hmmmmm..........


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